Tuesday, October 28, 2008

are we all what we are not?

Crushed and broken

Shredded and shrunk

The match box lungs needed fire

The nude and the nail

Knotted in ‘touch-me-touch-me not’

Wanted flesh in place of ink

The jacquard dots on gold

Ready to slip away from the slip cover

Searched shoes to walk on

The lover’s parcel

Wanted to flatten the starlet against the red letter box forever

While they invaded her wardrobe


 

 Were we all what we were not?

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fact(w)o(r)ry

i visited one of the factories today…a factory that has only 4 sewing lines and 300 workers. it’s small, clumsy yet efficient. the workers had stopped working three days back asking for a raise. now that’s what i call offence. apparently they had asked for ’sir’ or ‘madam’ and would not listen to anyone else. so i went. it was easy getting into the cabin sitting down and listening to the compliance guy. sure….he made sense. these were all people from the cutting and finishing section who had been with us for years and who had suddenly been converted to the religion of protest and violence by some ‘other’ NGOs. so i sat and listened and listened and…listened. none of the workers had come in to meet me. i figured that perhaps they wanted me on the floor. so i went and sat and sat and sat… suddenly i saw all 300 faces all around me, trying to talk to me all together. the noise killed me, the frustration hit me and i decided to ask questions. some said they had written innumerable letters addressed to me which had never reached me; some said the nurse was a bitch who didn’t give them more than one medicine a day; some said the GM Productions had told them that the only way was to protest and get their due raise; some even said that they were always penalized for being vocal. so i told them my story. i told them that every morning when i am on my to the office, i try and dodge my chef at home. i don’t want to face him as i know his obvious demands. more money for more dishes. frankly, i don’t mind my aloo bharta anymore. i still don’t want to dish out a few hundreds for a fancy lasagna that we all can live without. i don’t need the salsa dip; i don’t need the pita bread; i don’t need the rich filling anymore. at a time when there’s no vegetable selling at less than Tk 32.00/kg (except papaya), we all might as well say a special prayer and have only one dish per meal. so i told them that i understood what they were saying. they listened and listened. they understood and made me promise that i would go back and talk to them at least once a month. i promised that i would. after all, my office was only 5 minutes away from theirs. am surprised how i have so far managed to take a vacation and be gone for so long, so far away from home. home’s where those 300 and i would like to be.
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Monday, October 27, 2008

china in oct 08

Thomas Friedman’s book: Hot, Flat and Crowded was my latest acquisition and I did not want to part with it. All Friedman does is talk about how green we could have been, how grey we are and how black we can get…eventually.
What fascinated me about that book was its apparent allegiance to the Chinese clan. The Chinese are trying to go green, truly!
Green conferences, green bikes, green offices…. and before you know it, you have a chance of being recycled too. China smog scares one; but not quite so anymore.
What scares one are under estimating reports published on the .7% less growth this quarter for China. That is a time when we all tend to forget that we still have light years of catching up to do.
 
On Oct 21st, I landed in Pudong and the first disappointment was the airport’s basement parking lots. The distance between terminal 1 and 2 was minimal  but trying specially when I had accidentally landed up in terminal 2 with the driver being in 1. The language game turned painful as I kept on international calls to Marriot in Shanghai, while Marriott concierge in turn, tried to calm the driver down by telling him that the mistake was mine. I was running from one pole to another, trying to use body language to the maximum and trying to get to the policemen to speak to the driver over the phone and to carefully explain to him that I was stuck at basement level 2, stuck between cars and lorries and crushed by darkness and dust.
 
Well, I was finally rescued by my knight in Chinese armour and I eventually reached the hotel an hour later than schedule.
Man, was the same Shanghai that I had visited 4 years back? The staff had better English to impress the guests; the room had nothing Chinese in it; the food??? Italian and French to begin with… Where was China, indeed? 
The fair that I had gone to was the international fair for fabric suppliers from all over. The fair ground boasted of at least 2000 stalls. How on earth would I cope with so many and in so little time? Well, I did cover many, finally:)
The hallways were separated by product categories. I entered Hall 1 and the sheer surprise of finding only suiting material was a reminder of China’s choices. China does not choose to make the lower end s… anymore; China wants the niche. China’s interested in anything that pays well; China’s not into any basic mode or mood right now. The fur, the artficial leather, the suede, the leather, the ‘memory’ fabric and the rest all turned out to be good news for Bangladesh. By the time we chase Italian buyers to buy Armani from us, China would be catering customers in the moon. As for now, we could simply concentrate on basics: basic pants, basic shirts, basic blouses, basic sweaters, basic basics and so on and so forth.
 
By the time I hit the ladies wear stands, it was yet another feeling. The ladies were wearing something different now….fabric was more complex, the fall was complicated, the drape was difficult. Weren’t the ladies buying the basic cottons anymore? Nope…the products were carrying mixed signals: easy to wear, complex to look at (embroidery, applique, print, yarn dyed rolled into one) and yet affordable. Did good things come for cheap now?
Is that what our stocks have done to us?
 
Well, the westerners have been buying cheap for a long time, haven’t they? The stalls crowded with Europeans and Americans had similar action going on in almoist all of them. They were all filled with original cuttings from the brands and all the buyers needed were similar quality, look and feel at throwaway prices. Here we hear international panels screaming about copyrights and there we see the same group Chinese suppliers being asked to replicate the brands at one tenth of the original prices! And tell you what…some were even asking the suppliers to shift a line, reduce the check size and that’s it. One would be looking at wannabe Armani, a could have been Xenya, a look alike Chanel…..
 
The worst or rather the best hit me later. I had read about a wholesale market: Xi Pu, pronounced as Chi-pu-lu. The last ‘lu’ bit means: streets.
I ended up in Xi Pu-lu looking at trench coats costing me RMB 80; dresses costing me RMB 50 and along with those, authentic copies….ahhhh let’s call them ‘branded fakes’, shall we?
As for me, I love fakes. Wow….Mont blancs were easy to spot items at one point, today they are rare copies! The Louis Vuitton leather sling bag was a sample of perfection and the Prada was a clear pride. I ended up being slapped by a Chinese vendor when I bargained hard for a Ferragamo (or rather Cherragamo: Chinese ferragamo) purse. I was simply dividing the asking price by 3. Wasn’t that fair, specially in a world which had seen the worst in September? How could they be asking for more? Was that fair??
Speaking of fairness, China is fair. When one can land up with 9 Chrench Chiffons (Chinese French) for USD 200.00 and is unable to spend beyond a three hundred and shop like crazy, China should certainly be given the title of the Land for the Greedy.
 
And last but not the least, I kept walking with J.Walker the last evening. The musicians made you forget that they were Chinese and were hardly able to speak English. The rocks, blues and jazz were not Chrocks, Chlues or Chazz. They were what they are…all over.
The voices were what they are…all around.
The heights were also what they are…all across.
They have indeed grown taller….
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Saturday, October 18, 2008

arts and masks

It was strange to find Shomiron landing up at my doorstep. He’s an artist who has pride and a lot in his strokes to take pride in. Shomiron’s paintings sell at almost 80k in the local market. I presume 50% is taken by the galleries which do him the favor of providing the walls to hang his absolute beauties. Long ago, I had promised him a photograph of my best friend which he was supposed to translate into charcoal or color. That never happened. So, I assumed that he had come to me just to remind me of my broken promise. But I was wrong. Shomiron had come for a different purpose altogether. He was here to share a grief and perhaps, a mass of regret.

He had come to ask me if I would like to take a look at a few abstracts that he had in his studio which were created by a Norwegian artist he had met in
Norway, during one of his exhibitions. I was surprised. But why would he carry paintings from the West for sale in Dhaka? So, I probed. He gave in finally with tears welling up in his eyes.  Those art were all his. He had simply chosen a Norwegian name to put his mark on the canvas. I couldn’t have been sadder. He explained. Apparently the art critics were addicted to European names or desi high selling masters. Names like his which only painted women artists were not of interest to the art circle. So he had reverted back to his old habits of painting abstracts. And they were beautiful. Those pieces were rare and rewarding for any audience that sought beauty and meaning in art. I was told that the circle in the gallery was divided about his creations. Some said they made sense. Some said they were brilliant strokes of a Norwegian master. Some said they would be able to sell them at nothing less than half a million.

I heard Shomiron out and convinced him to go back home, change the signatures, re sign and claim his beauties back from masked walls. He deserved to be real.


 

On board Z5 001, September 21, 2008

 

 

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driving into the sunrise

We were driving into the sunrise. It looked like a burning coin, assured of its properties. It was meant to wreak life, start a day and burn out during the next 12 hours of tango.
So I took pictures that tell the story of a bending road, a 140 km speeding carrier and a 6 am reporting compulsions of a harassed soul swinging between drive and despair.
October 16, 2008
Kolkata 6:46 am
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