Shuru
Nov 13, 2006
The tiny little aircraft with not-so-divine wings with its ugly propellers stood as a tribute to schedule. While the national carrier failed its schedule, the little one promised the travelers a 45 minute ride to the nearest neighborhood: India, Calcutta. For a fussy and a nervous flyer like me, the impending doom of flirting with the 14000 feet height was not at all appealing. I hate clouds and I hate the bumps, tremors, turbulence and fasten seat belt signs. The pilot’s mid way announcements are what I dread the most. But I enjoy is my sense of ultimate submission to my Maker, who perhaps forgives me just because I turn out to be a devout Muslim, up in the air. I become an absolute court jester while defying gravity. I cover my head and then begin muttering familiar Suras coupled with Darud Sharif 11 times, at every go. I was always told by my Huzurs (female ofcourse) that Daruds always strengthen the appeal and God grants us an audience at His earliest.
So I obey. However, this time was an exception. I used a brief one liner and said: Help me, God and was sure that He would have no time to evaluate me as there were just too many hands being raised towards His direction with special prayers being offered for democracy at home. Like the very old Bengali, Bangali, Bangladeshi, Leagues, Dol’s communities, associations cropping up at every corner in the world, I too become an instant box of nostalgia the minute I walk away from home. I smell the dailies on board, look at every column, color, photograph that come my way when I write. Every trip seems to be the terminal one. Yet I never leave, and never fail to long for the Dhaka sky.
The newspapers added the last bit of spice to my pre-landing exercise. The query begins at the immigration desk. How’s it going down there, who do you think is right, do you think there’s going to be an intervention, etc, etc….I prepare my well practiced responses which do not correspond to the rhythm of my heart. Little do I have the ability to explain that citizens like us don’t make a difference in the rule of power and that we are all fighting our private battles in our special modes.
Kolkata should have been Kolikata. The extra ‘i’ would then add some more ‘I’ to it. The roads have the touch of Hind in them. I try and refresh my memory …when was it that I heard my father speak in Hindi? Possibly never. But needless to say, that the shabbiest Airtel or Hutch agent in his shorts and grubby t-shirt has more to offer to an outsider; he offers a fresh, tempting package of deals and frequencies, even speaks about a wireless internet WiFi card in ‘hot spots’, and tries establishing some contact with the visitor. The ‘Hoye Jabey’, ‘Pawa Jabey’s of Kolkata is music to someone who’s used to negatives at home. The internet café that simply gets the work done without frills is far more efficient than the broadband that I use through my plasma screen at home. No frills, and just plain living seems to be the ethos of the people. This month when Professor Yunus won the Nobel for Peace, I thought I would name us: ‘Gramer desh Bangladesh’. With cell phone at every corner of the country, micro credit reaching the poorest of the poor, we all thought that we would give birth to fresh people, mooted in conviction and made in South Asia. The difference between Dhaka and Kolkata is enormous. The weather’s cooler here. With a half hour difference, how on earth can they enjoy a separate sky? Well, Dhaka has an impatient pace wrecked with humidity and frustration. Every one’s on the move with or without purpose. But here in Cal, everyone tries to sell. No wonder the growth is at an 8%; no wonder Minister Chidamvaram speaks the fiscal language flawlessly. Looking at the dailies, one’s astonished to see how far the entrepreneurs have taken their businesses. The big boys are offering stem cell banking benefits to their employees meaning that the employees will enjoy the privilege of saving the cells of their new born in a bank so that future disease can be tackled with the aid of science while Dhaka’s still talking about minimum wage and HR issues. To a researcher of my kind who planned to continue education one exceptional morning and decided to inflict academic pain to the soul bruised with corporate policies, Kolkata offers the best of the best. Not only am I only half hour away from home, I have the opportunity to breathe in a different soil and am positioned to undertake the lonely journey to yet another phase in my life. When one steers the soul away from the humdrum of the corporate life, desires cease. One wants lesser than usual and loves basics. The going isn’t that tough anymore and the toughest don’t need to shop anymore. Then where is the hot spot of a rooted flaneur which is used to malls, surfaces, shifts and transits? Maybe it is busy digging answers up from the crooked tin roof of a dilapidated hut in a distance; or maybe it’s gone out for a small stroll down the Bolpark area in search of a hygienic bhelpuriwala.
Maybe, just maybe the hint of a mosquito net, neighborhood hindi tunes, drunken panwala’s sales pitch, books with hand bound covers of sari cloth bragging of a decolonized in Writers Workshop are all that the venturing stroller has finally allowed his or her core to discover. The rest of the territory has a ‘No entry’ sign dangling around its neck and has applied for unconditional leave for an indefinite period.
My time with her
Nov 14, 2006
Morning started at 7:00 with a cup of raw tea with her. She talks about her undying attachment for strainers that don’t rest on stands, rather settle inside a teapot. She recollects a London day when he niece who’s now big and lives in Hampstead had introduced the particular gadget to her. My time’s short. A glance at the Daily Telegraph and a quick read of the paper including the business page and the right hand corner side line on Bangladesh and the police beating people to death. Whoever wants to hear about tragedies, anyway? It was just today that I was reading in a reference book that Bengali never got close to the Greek sense of “tragedy” and hence grief was completely forbidden in early Sanskrit plays. This only meant that people preferred to run away from life and enjoy art to block pain. Life proves it, I guess, especially when one continues with Colgate shots throughout one’s life. Guess we end up being the biggest promoter and loyalists of art instead. I try and settle down with my reading material, wondering why Writers Workshop had promoted so many amateurs, so many young writers and why Mr. P.Lal had promoted the branding of Anglophone poetry in India so vehemently. Even if he did, why did he insist on the alternative publishing pattern which was hand bound in hand woven sari cloth? Simple. He just wanted to brand the pattern of writing. He wanted to be different, climb out of the post colonized state and perhaps dreamt of creating an “intimate enemy”. Anyway, my host knocks on my door and reminds me along with her boxer that I am to accompany her to Camac street. I agree, exceptionally quickly, knowing that it was an opportunity for me to get dropped off by her Maruti instead of the dusty, grimy, yellow tin boxes that put the word “Ambassador” to shame. If those dinosaurs were to be truly represent India, then Bangalore and the rest of India on the run would possibly burn those down along with the concept of recycling. They would never ever want a resurrection of the ugliest and the most inefficient. To make things worse, these ambassadors are driven by terrible drivers who intentionally take you for an unnecessary spin and get their meters high. Getting back to my hostess, must mention that she’s the wife of a government official who worked in the forest department. This part makes me sad. I watch her talk about her dead partner, who valued the life and integrity of a bureaucrat and did not put up with silvers on the table. I hear her talk about her husband who wanted her to drink a scotch with him every night and loved her to death. I listen in absolute wonder when she talks about their last night together with absolute passion and remembers how he wanted her to cook the last meal. I wonder when she goes inside her bedroom and comes out with a smile on her face telling me that she had just said goodbye to her husband. She does talk to her memories and she loves living around them and about them. She whispers her sadness to my ears cautioning me of a tomorrow that awaits me somewhere down the line. The 61 years of life that they had together and the lovely diamond jubilee on the 50th are fresh yesterdays that’ll stay with her till the end of her life. Wish I could do a ‘Weekdays with Santwana’ at some point. Mitch Albom with his ‘Tuesdays with Morrie’ needs some help now, I bet.
I enjoy listening to her donating all her tusks to the Forest Museum instead of selling it to the illegal bidders. I enjoy, I enjoy.
My host and I just got back from a play directed by a professor of English at the Jadavpur University. It was an Indianized version of Caryl Churchill’s Top Girls. Enjoyed the pace of the play and enjoyed the feminine slogans through out the production. The frequent use of F and S words did not surprise me. A royally F’d generation should live the word up completely, after all.
Meanwhile, Dhaka burns.